Day Three (Friday, September 2nd)
Acadia National Park
It
was cloudy and looked as though it might rain when we woke up, and we
just decided to de-camp and hit the
road. Acadia was roughly an hour away and we were hungry.
Unsure of where we could use our stove for oatmeal, we decided to
splurge and have breakfast at a restaurant. I googled what was
nearby and found a place called 2 Cats in Bar Harbor.
2 Cats in Bar Harbor, ME |
The hostess
was very nice and we sat outside (immediately realizing it was a
little chilly but I got our sweaters and we ordered tea (which didn't
completely help)). She joked how it was cold for us but to the
locals not at all - she was in a t-shirt and perfectly comfortable.
Unfortunately, our waitress was far from cordial. She did not make
eye contact and used as few words as possible. She was also clearly
irritated that she had to come back three times to get our order
(sorry not sorry, everything on the menu sounded great). She seemed hungover or something (Karol thought). Oh well.
There will be unhappy people wherever you go in this world. The food
was redeeming. Between us we had corned beef hash, eggs, spicy hash browns,
biscuits, and a side of strawberry butter (YUM). Everything was
delicious and we felt well nourished (LOL funny phrase -Karol) for
the day ahead.
We
drove to the Visitor's Center of Acadia National Park and went to
purchase our America The Beautiful Pass, another suggestion from my
friend Jabir who told us about freecampsites.net. It was only $80 and it
gets you into all the National Parks for a full year. Some of the
more popular parks have a $25 entrance fee, so just three visits will
get you your money's worth. We would be visiting way more than three
parks so this saved us a lot of money (another HUGE thank you to Jabir). Acadia National Park provided a shuttle bus that takes you
around the park to many of the major sights and trail heads. We
hopped on one and, per Karol's suggestion, got off at the first stop,
the North Ridge Cadillac Mountain trail. He had been to Acadia
before and said this was a great hike. He wasn't kidding –
Making our way up Cadillac Mountain |
I loved
this trail and when we got to the summit after a few hours (I think
it was less than 2) I looked around and smiled. It was such a
gorgeous view. Here's a video that might not work at all:
There were a ton of people at the top, most of them drivers, not hikers. One of the popular things to do is to drive Park Loop Road – a 27
mile road that patrons (heh) can drive along with parking lots at
some of the most popular sights. The peak of Cadillac Mountain was
one of the stops that you could drive up to and the parking lot was
full at noon when we had reached the top.
We looked down upon the
land as we ate some snacks and hydrated, then looked at a map to see
which trail we wanted to take back down. We preferred not to return
the way we came, and we found a trail that would take us down to
Bubble Pond where we could hop (like rabbits) back on the shuttle
bus. This route required that we first get on the South Ridge
Cadillac Mountain trail (we could have taken this all the way back
down but it would have been longer than the trail we just hiked) and
then take the trail that split off to Bubble Pond. It would be
shorter than our ascent so we thought it would be perfect to have
time for another short hike afterward. Wrong. So wrong. While it
was in fact shorter (well, allegedly, I didn't track the mileage
myself) it was extremely difficult. It could hardly be classified as
a hike in my opinion, it was closer to rock climbing. And we were
going down, so there was a lot of sitting and then hopping down off
of steep rocks.
Scooting down the rocks |
A little after we started our descension we caught
up to another couple and we ended up finishing the “hike”
together. The guy was from Spain and she was from England, but they
both lived in London. His
combination Spanish/British accent was really cool, I had never heard
anything like it before. Not that hers was not, I admire the sound
of a British accent on its own very much.
They
were both really friendly and I was glad to have stumbled across them
on the hilariously difficult climb down the mountain.
She even
offered her hand on several occasions as I struggled to get down, and
I couldn't help but think that many Americans would not be this kind
(terribly small sample size, yo). They were visiting New England for
two weeks, which was roughly only a third of her vacation time. She
heard that Americans receive little paid time off and when we
confirmed this and told her exactly how much time off we got at our
previous jobs she couldn't believe it. She had like 40 days. We
appreciated the humor in our situation the whole climb down. One of
us periodically commented on just how ridiculous and unexpectedly
challenging this descent was. It took us a grueling 2 hours to go
less than a mile and a half (going DOWN the mountain!) but we finally
reached the beautiful pond. We only stayed long enough to take a few
photos and we proceeded to wait for the shuttle together – we were
taking different routes so we said our goodbyes and wished each other
best of luck when their bus came first.
Quite a beautiful photo of Bubble Pond courtesy of Karol Cyrklaff |
When
we got back to the visitor center it was around 3 and we were pretty
exhausted. Our plan to do another short hike seemed overly ambitious
and we decided to find where we were going to sleep that night
instead and just drive there. We could go back to the free beach
campsite we stayed the night before, but it was an hour away and we
were going to come back to Acadia in the morning. We were eager to
shorten our drive to wherever we would be sleeping. The free
campsite map listed a Walmart parking lot where people were welcome
to park their RVs. It was only 25 minutes away and we figured we
could handle one night sleeping in the car to avoid 2 hours of
driving to and from Acadia. There were lots of RVs parked and it
seemed legitimate to stay there so we parked in the way back and
laughed. We were going to sleep in a Walmart parking lot!
It then
occurred to us that it was pretty early in the evening and we had
about 4 or 5 hours until our new bed time (9 o'clock) – we now
sleep 9-5, not work 9-5. We were quite hungry. We had already eaten
out that day, but the thought of cooking in the parking lot was not
particularly appealing and we also had time to kill. Google to the
rescue again, we found a restaurant called Ruth and Whimpy's not too
far away. I am pretty cheap and was panicking a little about eating
out twice in a day, but Karol reminded me that after Acadia we would
be spending two weeks at family friends' and would probably not be
spending a whole lot of money. We would just be eating all of their
food (sorry L & D). It would be nice if we could have a dinner
out in each place we visit just to sample the local cuisine. I felt
a little better and the food was of course exquisite which also made
it feel worth the money. We had some beers (super cheap and
delicious, only $3 each). Mine was a blueberry beer and Karol had a
different kind of light beer (light in color, I don't drink shitty
beer -Karol) and both were excellent. We started with calamari and
lobster chowder.
Calamari was good, not exactly noteworthy, but the
chowder was soooooooooooo(oo00o00oo0oo00oo -Karol) good. It was
creamy and delicious with potatoes and big, succulent pieces of
lobster. For entrees I had pulled pork with thin, crispy onion rings
(more like onion straws) and Karol had the Surf and Turf burger, a
burger with lobster on top (oh my god so good -Karol) and curly
fries. I definitely recommend this place if you're near Acadia. The
menu was huge and had something for everyone, even if you don't like
seafood. But you know, you're in Maine so you should probably try
some seafood (obv -karol). Too full to try their blueberry pie (it
seems that blueberries are a big thing, I saw blueberry everything
advertised on the drive to the Walmart), we drove back to our
sleeping spot. There was some light left and we played Boggle until
we could no longer read our words –
we then slept not so soundly in
the boatmobile. Yeah I woke up like 65 times (or maybe just twice) –
krl (fuck it, no more capitalization and no more vowels or
punctuation)
Day Four (Saturday,
September 3rd)
More Acadia / L & D's
We
were up at around 5:30 and went into the Walmart to use the bathroom,
brush our teeth, and wash our faces. We considered cooking oatmeal
in the parking lot but we weren't particularly hungry yet so we just
drove back to Acadia. This time, we thought we would drive the Park
Loop and stop at places we wanted to hike or see. There was another
really cool trail I read about online that Karol had done already
called the Bee Hive trail.
We parked in the Sand Beach parking lot
which was right near this trailhead and had some crackers and power
bars. There was a woman cleaning up trash in the parking lot and she
brought up the irony of people wanting to come see these beautiful
parks but trashing it. The Bee Hive trail is even less of a hike
than the Bubble Pond trail we descended the previous day. It really
is a climb, but I at least knew this going into it and that was part
of the appeal to me.
Climbing Bee Hive |
I almost fell just kidding |
There are metal rungs appropriately spaced
around this mountain and you had to climb them much like a ladder at
times. Other times you just had to work with the rocks to get up to
where you needed to go.
Rungs on Bee Hive |
Climbing Crazy Eyes |
It was quite scary when you observed how little space there was from the pathway you were on to the mountainside that you could so easily tumble down. (i was kinda shitting myself a little -kl) I hadn't had an adrenaline rush like that in a while and I thoroughly enjoyed it. As much as I enjoy hiking, I am certainly not in great shape at the moment and I found it the perfect level of difficulty - challenging but not so challenging as to make it frustrating and unenjoyable. I think this is currently my favorite trail (that I've hiked, not just at Acadia) - though I have a feeling that will change in the coming year. There were several people at the summit and we sat down just as the other two couples had, but far enough away to give them some space.
Bee Hive Summit |
View from Bee Hive Summit |
Switching to the Bowl Trail |
I was quite impressed. They already passed us on their way back down and we lost sight of them immediately. We got to the car and drove on to Thunder Hole, another popular destination along Park Loop Road.
At high tide (around 3pm) the ocean crashes into a cavernous hole and causes a monstrous wave.
There is a staircase leading down so you can stand right next to the hole. We were not expecting any thunderous waves since it was morning, but it was still a beautiful spot. Karol and I climbed up onto a rock and watched the ocean while the others stood looking into to the very not thunderous hole. I laid down in the sun for a while - the temperature was perfect and the sun felt warm and inviting.
Next to Thunder Hole |
Looking like a goober basking in the sun |
Some cool looking green fuzzy stuff in the hole |
Very unlike the sweltering humidity we were dealing with in New Jersey before we left (yeah fuck that guy what a smelly boy -k). After a few more minutes of basking we went back up the stairs and decided to walk the Ocean Path down to Otter Point instead of driving. I was really glad we did this because if you went left off of the pathway you could walk on the huge rocks that littered the shoreline. The pictures Karol took here are some of my favorites thus far.
Including the silly and ridiculous "Charlotte does yoga" sequence.
Returning to the Ocean Path, we walked briskly along, trying to pass some of the other strollers (babies -) taking their dandy old time and not being aware of the fact that they were holding many people up (not just us). We successfully went around them and quickly got to the Otter Cliffs and then up to Otter Point. The view was really nice, but honestly I enjoyed the rocks we climbed on along the way to Otter Point much more.
I'm really just stretching |
definitely not doing yoga |
no yoga here |
still no yoga |
Returning to the Ocean Path, we walked briskly along, trying to pass some of the other strollers (babies -) taking their dandy old time and not being aware of the fact that they were holding many people up (not just us). We successfully went around them and quickly got to the Otter Cliffs and then up to Otter Point. The view was really nice, but honestly I enjoyed the rocks we climbed on along the way to Otter Point much more.
We
walked back to the car and figured we could have some lunch at the
visitor's center and then drive to Lorette and Darrel's house (family
friends I've known since I was born) who live further north in Maine.
We found a picnic table at the visitor center and used our camp
stove to make some pasta. (then we played a game of fly bits or
pepper! -) Spoiler alert it was fly bits and we ate it anyway.
We
filled up our water bottles before departing and cued up Dune for our
three and half hour drive to Mars Hill, Maine. (fuck yeah 75 mph
speed limits -)
We
stopped on the way to get a view of Maine's tallest mountain,
Katahdin (which we found out was like 4 times higher than cadillac wtf -).
We
arrived around 5 and it was so great to seem them, it has been a long
time since I saw them. I was an angstful teenager the last time I
had been at their house and obviously I've changed a lot. I now greatly appreciate their lovely farm house and the beautiful land they
maintain.
Tons of apples |
Mushroom ball, half as big as it grew to be |
View of the road, fields for days |
Garden rays of sun |
Beautiful trees |
All the world is green |
They
showed us our room and the spa-like bathroom that we would be able to
use (jacuzzi tub, ohhh yeahhhh). We took a bath first thing since we
hadn't bathed in 3 days and then enjoyed the bolognese pasta Lorette
made for dinner. After eating we watched Pineapple Express before
retiring to bed.
Are you keeping track of your steps? You are doing lots of exercise that you might walk a ton of miles during your adventure. Thanks for sharing as I am enjoying following you.
ReplyDeleteHaha not exactly keeping track, but I never disabled this weird lg health app that inaccurately keeps track of my steps. Apparently those two days in Acadia totaled about 23,000 steps. My phone even told me I was exercising a lot buy just yesterday told me I hadn't exercised in a while... Vaguely encouraging sometimes but also just creepy most of the time... Anyway yeah there will be rudimentary step counting unless my phone isn't with me or off as it will be often.. I try to keep it with me especially for hikes (pictures obviously and sometimes it will track my movement via GPS which will be nice to have a record of)
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